Il Dolce Far Niente: The Sweetness of Doing Nothing in Sicily

Okay so we didn’t exactly do nothing during our trip to Sicily, but visiting the largest Mediterranean island during its off-season meant that a lot of the liveliness of the city was muted. However, we found so much beauty within the city during our two-day stay due to the lessened crowds and the pressure to explore beyond the city centers. This blog covers an itinerary for a quick trip to Sicily in early December.

Day 1: Exploring Central Catania

Accommodation

After landing in Catania at 9:30 AM, we checked into our hotel: B+B Gisira. The customer service was excellent as we needed to book a night earlier than expected, and the woman working aided us in booking a room and checking us in early. They even provided a cot for me in the room on short notice. The first thing we did after dropping our luggage off was explore the city as the hotel was located a quick from the Piazza del Duomo, in central Catania.

Caffè del Duomo e Ristorante

We stopped at Caffè del Duomo e Ristorante every day for a pastry and coffee. It was at this cafe that I tried the Sicilian Arancini ball, a rice ball that is coated with breadcrumbs and deep fried. It was absolutely delicious and my dad seemingly enjoyed the coffee (which says a lot as he is a very particular coffee drinker). The Cafe is located in the Piazza del Duomo, so while sitting outside on the patio you can take in the gorgeous architecture, including the Fontana dell'Elefante (Fountain of the Elephant), the symbol of the city.

Local Markets

Directly down the street from the Piazza is a local market which was both fascinating and a little vulgar. Vendors lined the streets with fresh meat and fruit, and walking through this area was very busy even in the off-season. I loved observing the different cultures and we bought some fruits from one of the vendors to try (only €1.50 for plums, grapes, and some more exotic fruit). We continued exploring the city and stumbled upon another market, however, this one was more comparable to a flea market as there were clothes, food, accessories, technology, and more.

The Ocean

Although it was 50°C, we knew that Sicily was known for its beaches, so we decided to walk to the water. Without any planning, we simply just traversed the city until we could see the ocean, and attempted to get as close as we could. We didn’t initially get direct access as the water was blocked by a fence and train tracks, but the water was beautiful nonetheless.

Dinner

For the first night, we ate at a pizza place. We didn’t eat lunch, so we were very hungry by 6:00 PM, but Italians typically do not eat dinner until 8:00 PM. While we were searching for a place to eat, everywhere was empty which initially made us think that they weren’t very popular spots, but after some consideration, we realized that we were very early. I didn’t take note of the name of the restaurant, but we were the only ones eating which made it very clear that we were tourists (as if the lack of Italian didn’t give it away already). The pizza was delicious, but for lack of a better word, I would describe it as soggy as it had to be eaten with a fork and knife (which is often typical for Italian pizza).

Day 2: Lookouts and Day Trip to Taormina

Mount Etna

Our initial plan was to hike Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe. We booked a trekking trip through Get Your Guide, but due to a winter storm at the peak of the mountain, our booking was canceled. I would highly encourage anyone to visit the volcano as there are so many activities to do such as E-bike tours, Cable Cars, Jeep tours, and more. I was super disappointed with the weather not working in our favor, but this should be a high-priority item for others who visit Catania! Because our plans fell through for the day, we had to be a little spontaneous on our second day. I browsed some other travel blogs to plan the rest of the day and found (thanks to Along Dusty Roads) a lookout spot within walking distance of our hotel.

Lookout to Catania: Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata

After stopping for pastries at Caffè del Duomo e Ristorante, we walked across the Piazza to the Cathedral of Sant’Agata and looked for any indication of a lookout tower. After doing a lap around the Cathedral and seeing nothing, we decided to just walk in and ask. When we walked in we saw a table with a slot for money and quickly learned that it cost €5 to climb to the top of the cupula. The stairs were very narrow and steep, and after a quick climb, the stairs opened up to a terrace that provided an extraordinary view of the city. Most notably, Mount Etna was visible and towering over the buildings. We were the only ones in the cupula, so our experience was incredibly peaceful.

To Taormina we go!

Spontaneously, we decided to leave Catania and take a day trip to Taormina, a gorgeous hilltop town an hour train ride outside of the city. I am a huge fan of hiking, and saw that you could walk from the train station in Taormina to the town center, but what I did not account for was just how long and inclined that walk would be. It ended up being a 40 minute hike to the center, and my dad was not happy about the fact that I rold him it would take 20 minutes. Besides severly underestimating the incline, the hike provided some astonishing views of the coast of Sicily, and walking through the town was like being transported into another place entirely. We definitley needed some hydration after our unexpected hike, and sought out a restaurant.

C + G Chocolate

We stopped at C+G Chocolate, a restaurant that sounded right up my alley. We ordered some drinks and we were provided with complimentary pizza bites, peanuts, and assorted salty snacks. I considered those snacks my lunch so I had no problem ordering one of their specialty gelatos. I got the Coppe Nutellina gelato, and the presentation was a 10/10. Unfortunately where presentation excelled, taste fell short as the base was only vanilla which became very plain after the first few bites. My Dad got the pistachio cake which was very flavorful and looked amazing. We spent quite some time at the restaurant as the view was unbeattable and we wanted to take in the warmth of the restaurant for as long as we could before trekking back to the train station.

Catching the Sunset

After sitting and talking for quite some time, we braved the chill of the oceanside town and explored the streets. Almost every store was closed due to the off-season, so we really only wandered through the streets while observing all of the magnificent architecture. Additionally, it was very quiet, and we were oftentimes the only ones on a street at a given time. The sun began to set so we decided it was best to head back to the train station, and this time the hike down was significantly easier. Not only was the hike easier on the decline, but we also timed our return to the station perfectly as the sun set while we were walking back. I tried to capture just how spectacular this view was, but nothing can beat how it felt to be there in person.

Back to Catania!

After a chaotic train ride home (we got on the wrong train), we needed to get dinner. This time we were more on time, and went to a Mexican place that was three minutes from our hotel. I had chicken fajitas which were served sizzling on a pan and I got to construct them myself. After not having Mexican for a while, it was a refreshing change to my palette. We had a very early flight home the next morning, so we went to bed shortly after dinner.

Conclusion

Sicily is an absolutely beautiful island with so much to offer. From stunning architecture, to incredible oceanside views, to an accessible active volcano, Sicily offers endless avenues to wander through. While our trip was more spontaneous than expected and took place during the off-season, I still left understanding the attraction of the island, and I can only image it’s allure during the warmer seasons. Our 2-day trip introduced me into a snippet of what Sicily has to offer and returning during its warm season has climbed near the top of my bucket list.

Previous
Previous

Taking A Bite Out Of The Big Apple

Next
Next

Milan’s Cathedral Views & Traversing Lake Como